A crazy beautiful beast! The Audemars Piguet Concept Flying Tourbillon 26589IO
The first Royal Oak “Concept” watch was released in 2002. At the turn of the new millennium, global culture had a growing appetite for futuristic and radical design, while the watchmaking world remained largely traditional. Three decades after the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet seized the moment to redefine what 21st-century haute horology could be.
Inspired by concept cars, the first Audemars Piguet concept watch marked a turning point in design and innovation. Priced at a stratospheric 250,000 CHF, around 25 times the cost of a stainless steel Royal Oak at the time, all 150 pieces were quickly allocated. The success was such that what was meant to be a one-off eventually became a full collection.
With its open-worked dial and angular tonneau-shaped case, the Flying Tourbillon GMT follows the design DNA of the Concept collection. High-tech materials are central to its identity, as seen in the green ceramic and sandblasted titanium used on this piece. At 44 mm in diameter and 16 mm thick, this is by no means a small watch, but a true statement piece.
The intricate design and finishing of the pushers and crown guards reflect the no-compromise approach taken in the making of this watch. This green version offers a particularly appealing range of colours, with a dark green bezel, matte grey case and pink gold hands working in perfect harmony. The textured rubber strap integrates seamlessly into the case and is paired with a titanium folding clasp featuring the brand’s logo.
Speaking of design, Audemars Piguet describes the movement as “architectural”, a fitting description for such a three dimensional and complex calibre. Skeletonised in an ultra-modern way, the dial features a flying tourbillon, a second time zone at three o’clock and a function selector at six, all while remaining highly legible.
One could easily get lost admiring the open-worked dial, from the finely crafted tourbillon cage to the partially hidden double barrels delivering an impressive 10-day of power reserve. The sharp angles and layered construction give the watch a distinctly futuristic feel, almost reminiscent of a hypercar.
The N, H and R letters on the dial indicate crown position and make the watch easier to set. As in a car, “N” stands for neutral. When pulling the crown, the selector moves to “R” for “remontage” or winding, and to “H” for hours, allowing the setting of the time. The GMT can be set via its dedicated pusher, while the white and green disc makes it easy to distinguish between day and night.
The Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT is a true piece of innovative and contemporary haute horology, created without compromise. Combining one of the most visually captivating complications, the flying tourbillon, with one of the most practical, the GMT, it stands out as one of the most attractive and compelling pieces within the Concept line.