F.P. Journe Chronometre Optimum in Rose Gold
This is the F.P Journe model that is dedicated to super precise
timekeeping, it also happens to be my favourite Journe model.
First launched in 2012 it has been a constant in the collection for
over a decade, if it aint broke, as they say.
This is the rose gold variant in 40mm but wears a little larger as its
“all dial” with a slim bezel, 10mm thick and 30m WR.
20mm lugs so a nice standard size for those who like to play with
straps, but personally, I think the grey alligator is an absolutely
perfect match for the warmth of the case.
The “double” dial is a beauty set on to a rose gold base with a
framed off-white dial dealing with the time and small seconds.
FP have pulled off a lovely touch by using inner arabic hour markers
as well as a numbered minute track, a move that could have risked
looking busy but one that works really well and is nicely set off by
the central guilloche.
It is an exceptionally attractive dial, and remarkably clean given its
compact nature.
Flame blued hands add both a bit of fancy plus excellent legibility
against the pale backdrop.
The window at 10 offers viewing of the “remontoire” a movement
feature designed to stabilise the accuracy of a watch, hence its
inclusion as a complication in the “chronometre optimum”
A watch is powered by a mainspring housed inside a barrel that
delivers power to the balance spring which is attached to the
balance wheel.
The balance wheel is responsible for controlling the speed at which
the wheels powering the hands etc turn.
As a mainspring unwinds, it can lose power, particularly in hand
wound watches.
Less so in autos as they keep themselves “topped up” by motion.
This loss of power can disrupt timekeeping as the wheels powered
by the springs slow down, similar to the way in which an electric
shaver slows down its cutting speed before eventually grinding to a
halt.
The same thing happens in reverse when a watch is fully wound
and the mainspring is putting out more power, things speed up.
A remontoire (from the French word remonter, to wind) is a
secondary spring added to the movement that provides stable
power to the balance mechanism.
It regulates the power delivery between fully wound and unwound.
Effectively - constant force applied to the balance and escapement
courtesy of a remontoire = stable timekeeping that isnt affected by a
loss of torque, or as FP calls it “optimal chronometry”
There’s an indicator at the 7 area of the dial for you to keep an eye
on the manual movement and wind when required.
Note that all power reserve indicators on FP Journe chronometers
are in REVERSE.
0 indicates full power (zero hours since last winding) and the
reserve ticks down into the red zone. This movement actually
delivers 70 hours on a full wind but FP have denoted “optimal”
power on the reserve which much like a petrol gague doesnt count
the dregs left in the engine.
If you flip over to the back of the watch, above the remontoire sits
another seconds counter. This one shows “dead” seconds
(incremental ticks like a quartz) when the watch is operating on full
power, and drops to a sweep seconds display when at low power.
Its another way of checking that the remontoire is doing its business
in the back.
Speaking of back business, the calibre 1510 is made from 18 carat
rose gold - OOFT, no messing there from FPJ.
This may be a “time only” piece but it is full on drop dead gorgeous
high horology.
