Shining bright! The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce 'Rainbow' 7968/300R
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut marks a stark departure from the brand’s more classic collections. Created in 1997, it was designed “not for an evening reception, but for action”, in the words of Thierry Stern himself. Immediately identifiable thanks to its unique shape, “grenade” dial and tropical strap, the Aquanaut quickly became a commercial success.
In 2022, Patek Philippe celebrated 25 years of the Aquanaut collection with the launch of the “Luce” Rainbow Chronograph. “Luce”, meaning light in Italian, is the name used by the brand to set apart diamond-set bezels within the Aquanaut collection. Bold and unapologetic, this watch stands as the first self-winding chronograph aimed at women from Patek Philippe.
While diamond-set bezels have been around for a long time, “rainbow” bezels have really been trending over the past ten years. This example unusually features both, making it a truly special piece.
Gem setting is a true art and takes center stage on this watch. Patek Philippe uses the highest-quality stones and even runs its own high jewellery workshop at the Manufacture. For this piece, they chose to invisibly set a double row of diamonds and sapphires. This technique requires milling the case and cutting grooves into each stone. The 52 hand-picked sapphires are perfectly matched across the bezel and indexes. On top of that, forty Top Wesselton diamonds add sparkle and complement the sapphires beautifully.
The 39.9mm rose gold case shows a beautiful mix of polished and brushed surfaces, and is large enough to be worn by men and women alike. Legibility is perfect, thanks to the rose gold baton hands with luminescent coating and sapphire-set indexes. Made of natural mother-of-pearl, the dial is subtly engraved with the signature Aquanaut pattern. A red composite strap carries this motif, creating a seamless design that flows across the watch. Completing the look, the rose gold fold-over clasp is set with an additional ten baguette diamonds for good measure.
The Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph does not only offer spectacular gem setting, it also brings serious horological legitimacy. At its heart beats the caliber 28-520, an automatic flyback chronograph. Patek Philippe wisely chose to only include a 60-minute chronograph counter with no date window. This keeps the dial uncluttered, and leaves room for the stones to shine. Originally invented for pilots, the flyback function lets you reset and restart the chronograph in a single click. Beyond timing two consecutive events, there’s something deeply satisfying about watching the second hand jump back to zero and glide smoothly around the dial.
The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, with its central gold rotor decorated with circular Côtes de Genève and the emblematic Calatrava cross. The bridges and baseplate are also finished with Côtes de Genève and perlage. The Patek Philippe seal guarantees exceptional precision, between -1 and +2 seconds per day. Water resistant to 30 meters, the watch offers 50 to 55 hours of power reserve, making it perfect for everyday wear.
The Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph is not for everyone. As a true statement watch, its presence and singularity make it stand out within the Patek Philippe collection. Combining high-jewellery and high-horlogy, its boldness and exclusivity makes it a true collector’s piece, and a watch that leaves a lasting impression.