One of my ALL TIME favourites! The Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1R
Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1R-001
It is safe to say that Patek Philippe must have a frustrating relationship with stainless steel.
Since the brand was founded in 1839, it has been manufacturing aesthetically beautiful and highly complex watches in precious metal for the discerning and, dare we say, horologically mature client.
How frustrating it must be, then, when the first word that springs mind for many when discussing a master manufacturer of grand complications, is “NAUTILUS”, specifically the 5711, a simple 3-handed sport watch made from Stainless Steel.
Over the past few years, the eagle eyed will have seen a few interviews in which Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe has discussed the Nautilus, and the wider application of stainless steel within the brand. It was becoming evident that the “hype” for steel sports pieces (namely the 5711) was prompting some consideration.
He said - “We had to work very hard to get into the gold and platinum league, and that’s where we should stay.”
“I don’t want us to have more than a third steel watches. The steel Nautilus makes up a big part of that quota, and I don’t like that,”
“I don’t want a single model to suddenly make up 50% or more of our collection and dominate Patek’s image“.
“I have to be very tough on the quantity I don't want steel taking over the lead in the whole collection.”
If we couldn’t see where that was going at the time, it was the death knell for the infamous 5711 when in 2021 a one year run of olive dial 5711’s signalled the end of the line beyond a limited run of 170 “Tiffany” pieces.
In 2022 Patek unveiled the ref 5811, a 41mm white gold blue dial heir apparent, so while steel is no more, the standard Nautilus still lives, but in a material of Thierry Stern’s choosing.
You may be wondering at this point why I’m discussing the 5711 when holding a 5990R, so let me get to my potentially controversial point.
Some Nautilus references are “better” in steel.
The 5990 is not one of them.
This is not to say that the 5990/1A isn’t an extraordinary Nautilus, it is, but the rose gold of the 5990/1R works to elevate the design above and beyond what I would expect to see from a steel to precious metal “upgrade”, many of which don’t interest me in the slightest as a die-hard fan of sports watches.
The 5990 was first introduced to the Nautilus range in 2014. It featured a stainless steel case, black gradient dial and and built upon the ever popular 5980R chronograph by adding a Travel Time complication.
The rose gold variant that we’re looking at today was launched in 2021 and has become the “grail” of the range which is no mean feat given its competition.
It is 40.5 wide, 12.8mm tall with a length of 51.2mm which makes it exceptionally well balanced on the wrist with a pleasing combination of heft and presence without being “OTT”.
Given that it’s hosting two complications with the flyback chronograph and travel time features, Patek have been rather ingenious at keeping the iconic Nautilus shape constant by incorporating the travel time “triggers” into the left hand side of the case in the spot usually occupied by the models ubiquitous “ears”.
This lovely twist of tech has meant that the only real disruption to the original case design is a bit of weight gain (happens to us all after 46 years) and the addition of two chronograph buttons on the side of the case.
That said, the 5980 has been sporting chrono triggers very successfully since 2006 so they’re an addition that we are already well accustomed to.
There is a date change pusher tucked above the top chronograph button and despite having 5 additional ingress points on the case, water resistance is an excellent 120 metres.
And now onto the dial, which is a glorious sunburst blue which switches between shades with the light ranging from a dark almost navy blue and a bright and radiant electric blue, reminiscent actually of the old electric blue Omega Seamasters that achieved an almost cult following for their behaviour in the sunshine. (On that note I wonder if Patek are likely to put a price on my head for such a comparison)
Regardless, it is an incredible effect that plays just so nicely with the rose gold of the case.
The rest of the dial real estate is as you would expect from the reference -
Pointer date subdial at 12
Small seconds at 6
Day night indicator apertures at 3 and 9
GMT hand which is either operational or can be hidden beneath the hour hand when not in use to clean up the dial.
The chronograph feature on the 5990 is a “Flyback” which allows you to time multiple events in a sequence if you want to.
Traditionally the order of operation in a non flyback chronograph is top button to start, top button again to stop, and bottom button to reset to 0.
A flyback chrono allows you to bypass some of this sequence. You use to top button to start it, and the bottom stops and resets the count to zero with one push making the chronograph hand “fly back”
Essentially it is faster to operate so ideal for timing multiple events in sequence.
The bracelet on this one is absolutely perfect. It is weightier than the standard 5711 bracelets as it needed to be “upscaled” to compensate for a chunkier case.
Patek have got the balance just right here and the bracelet is exceptionally comfortable. The 5990R features the new “easylink” clasp which makes for some mercifully easy adjustment on the go.
The previous iterations had no such adjustment so if your wrist responds to a change in climate between summer and winter, you needed to get the tool kit out.
As a package, this is a seriously appealing Nautilus. Precious metal, intuitive and useful complications, upgraded bracelet, and an absolutely magnificent dial and incredible finishing. It’s a grail piece, and rightly so.