The Now Discontinued Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R
Since its launch at Baselworld in 2013, this full rose gold with black fume dial 5980/1R occupied the top tier of the Nautilus “wanted list”. Having spent the last few years soaring far above RRP it has just been discontinued by Patek.
Some online pundits are speculating over its replacement, a new dial colour perhaps, while others appear to be confident that it has been permanently sidelined by the 5990/1R which has the same flyback chronograph feature with the addition of a Travel Time function.
The short answer to the speculation is that unless there are some leaks from the brand bucket - we aren’t going to find out whats in store for the 5980 until Watches and Wonders in April.
Stats are a very comfortable 40.5 wide, 12.5mm tall with a length of 51mm including the integrated end links.
It’s notably chunkier than the 5711 which is renowned for being a slim piece, but this is to be expected as it’s movement is more complex which has led to an increase in case size and a thicker bracelet for balance. It wears its additional weight incredibly well and is super comfortable, so ideal for a weekend wandering around Hong Kong.
All in this is a spectacular iteration of the Nautilus, and if I’m honest it has a slight edge for me over the 5990 as the dial is a lot simpler with only the date knocking it off from being an exercise in symmetry. As the date is useful, I can live with that.
The finishing is superb and blends an alternating brushed “satin” and high polished finishes.
The bezel is brushed on top with polished facet and sides, while the remainder of the case is polished bar the “ears” on either side. Bracelet is brushed with a polished side bevel and centre links. It uses a pin and collar system for link removal rather than screwed in bars which is more of a pain in the bum to size, but the trade off there is more security as with screwed bars theres always an outside chance that these can work loose with wear and the last thing you want to drop on tile or concrete is a Nautilus.
An interesting (perhaps) point of note on the Nautilus is that its crystal replicates the bezel in that it is cut to a polygon. While both the Royal Oak and the Nautilus are Genta designs, of the pair, the Nautilus is the only one who’s decidedly 70s anglular design echoes across the entire watch - the Royal Oak has a “standard” circular sapphire set into an octagonal bezel.
The horizontally embossed gradient dial spreads from smokey grey at the centre moving to black around the edges with well lumed 18ct gold hands and markers - legibility is not an issue here.
Water resistance is the standard 120m despite the additional “holes” to the case courtesy of the chronograph triggers and date change pusher.
Although this is a whistlestop tour of this particular reference, the conclusion is a glowing one - its a beast of a Nautilus and if not replaced, will be sorely missed.