Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin 4300v
A glorious reminder that the Holy Trinity of watchmaking extends beyond Patek and AP, this is the Vacheron Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin, and it’s an absolute peach.
Stats are an “any-wrist” friendly 41.5mm diameter, 8.3mm thick, or rather ultra-thin and a fairly compact 49mm lug to lug thanks to the bracelet end-link construction facilitating a vertical drop and drape rather than being flared which can contribute to the overall length of the watch a la Royal Oak, a direct competitor to the Overseas as far as haute horology and seventies styling goes.
Long story short - an Overseas will sit better on a slimmer wrist.
Not only is it a great wear, but you can switch the style of it from full gold lump to slightly sportier in a matter of seconds thanks to the rather ingenious quick release strap system and complimentary blue rubber or leather straps.
Personally I’m very much a fan of the bracelet which carries the Maltese cross motif of both the bezel and the brand through the entirety of the watch. It is exceptionally well finished with satin brushwork and polished facets and outer edges - I’d wear it all the time as its spectacular, particularly in full gold, but nonetheless the simplicity of changing and the two spare straps are a welcome bonus to the package.
The angular case and plinth mounted polished bezel are flawlessly hand finished with alternating satin finishes and mirror polishing - Vacheron don’t seem to attract the hype of the other two members of the trinity, but they should, as their craftsmanship is a match, if not at times exceeding that of the competition.
Dial-wise, this is the ever popular blue model which features a really deep and at times properly dark blue lacquer rather than sunburst or metallic.
It works superbly well with the rose gold hands and applied indices and is both well spaced and legible with sunken subdials featuring the month at the top, date at 3, moonphase which is pretty neat and features some of the constellations at 6 and the day at 9 with a minute track adorning the rehaut.
All the information you need for a perpetual calendar perfectiy layed out.
Adjustments are made by pushers in the case sides, but despite this water resistance is a very reasonable 50m.
The movement is in-house but based on the JLC 920 ebauche which has been powering ONLY holy trinity perpetual calendars since 1967. The movement is also ringed with an iron cage which makes it anti-magnetic so highly unlikely to be affected by airport scanners, speakers, magnet closures etc. Doubly handy because a) modern life is full of magnetism and b) being a perp cal, the watch is a set and forget until 2100, so a change of timekeeping thanks to magnetic fields would be most unwelcome indeed.
It would be unfair and doing the Overseas a vast disservice to say that this is a great “alternative” to the Royal Oak or Nautilus, because it is far too good to be viewed as an “also consider”
So I am going to say, if you want an integrated bracelet perpetual calendar, that is sleek, beautiful, packed with heritage, and more to the point one that you can swim with should you desire, from one of the peak haute horology manufacturers - check out the Vacheron Constantin Oversesas - It won’t disappoint.