World First! The new Rolex 1908 on 'Settimo' Bracelet
Rolex 1908 on Settimo
At Watches and Wonders 2025, while the Land-Dweller was the new brand celebrity of the show, those Sneaky Pete’s at Rolex released a Settimo bracelet variant of the 1908.
First launched in 2023 the new Rolex 1908 range replaces the outgoing Cellini collection and is positioned to offer the brands “dress watch” option.
Although I’m an admittedly huge fan of the professional range, the Crown played a blinder back in the 1960’s when their marketing man of the hour Rene Paul Jeanneret began to float the idea that perhaps one Rolex wasn’t enough.
He suggested that while buyers should of course be buying their “tool” watches from the brand - they should also consider another Rolex for formal purposes. In short, one was not enough for the average man - you needed a workhorse and a show pony, and the Cellini line was ready and waiting to fill the formal watch spot for those inclined to build a collection to cover all bases.
The premise in the intervening 60 years has remained very much the same, but as the interest in steel “do it all” pieces rose and the world became more casual, the dedication to precious metal formal watches waned, as did the popularity of the Cellini.
As style always ebbs and flows, interest in dress pieces has picked up again alongside the rise in vintage re-editions and “dapper” watches for the discerning Don Drapers around town, so it comes as no real surprise that Rolex has retired the ageing Cellini in favour of a refreshed range of classic pieces in the form of the 1908 (named after the founding year of the brand)
The model line is 39mm in size and precious metal only which is really the only “acceptable” material for dress watches, and is delivered with 3 metal choices - yellow gold with white or black dial, white gold with white or black dial, and platinum with an ice blue dial which is a bit of a brand signature.
I’m not usually a follower of new is best, but in the case of the 1908 on “Settimo” bracelet - it really is the one to go for in my opinion, and I say this for four compelling reasons:
The new bracelet design is phenomenal.
I have a pre existing love hate relationship with alligator straps - love the longevity, do not love the gloss and formality.
It is always better to go for a bracelet variant of any watch, and pick up straps should you want options later.
The new bracelet design is phenomenal.
It’s a seven-link construction with each mirror polished link being perfectly rounded so not only does it drape like silk, it also glistens and glitters which creates a beautiful series of shimmers with movement.
It has a real vintage throwback feel to it where dress watches straddled the line between tools and jewellery.
The concealed clasp adds to this sensation with the only noticeable disruption in the smooth texture being the applied Rolex clown which makes up the “flip to open” mechanism.
The whole thing is robust, tactile and indescribably elegant, even down to the delicately curved end-links.
Not only is the construction a point of interest, but also the softer sheen of the metal in the 1908 yellow gold offerings which is far less jarringly GOLD than I’m used to seeing on the likes of the Daytona et al.
I’m not sure if Rolex has been up to some alchemy in their foundry, or whether the slimness or simplicity of the design calms the gold down overall, nonetheless, it’s notably easy on the eye and the mellow tone suits the old-world feel of this watch to a tee.
Speaking of not jarring, the dial is white but most certainly NOT a flat bright white. It is an opaline that has a soft sheen to it which Rolex says is created by a process called “Magnetron Sputtering” which is a type of physical vapour deposition which creates a film or coating that is applied using magnetic fields to control the spread of charged ion particles.
Presumably in this case, the application of off white paint that has just enough texture to capture reflections and light play incredibly well.
The dial also features a vintage black “railroad” minute track around both the outer edge of the dial and the same is found around the small seconds at six.
The applied indices are a mix of batons and Arabics for the 3, 9, and 12 and are made from polished 18 carat gold. Up close and with a loupe, they are finished exceptionally well, and due to their elevation cast some really subtle but incredibly charming shadows which contribute to the dial being classic but with enough twists to keep a modern wearer entertained.
The dial even sports an “Open 9” beloved of vintage collectors who tend to play spot the open 6 and 9’s on the date wheels of their vintage Rolex. What a touch.
The polished handset is suitably old-world with zero lume and an observatory style hour hand. The ridge down the centre of each hand catches the light well making it very easy to read in all but the darkest conditions. The handset is also capped, which rather speaks to the level of finishing going on here.
It is a spectacular and restrained watch from the Crown, and to give them absolute credit where its due, even though it fits the “dress” category, it could easily double as a classy daily wearer.